By Michael Bray
For the next stop on our journey through the main structural components of wine, we’re discussing tannin. Tannins are a type of molecule present in a wide variety of plants, including food items like berries, nuts, and chocolate, and beverages like coffee, tea, and – you guessed it – wine. Tannins are astringent and bitter, and they create a dry sensation on the palate. Consider the way your mouth feels after drinking a strong cup of black tea, or an underripe piece of fruit. That’s tannin in action!
A quick note on grapes and winemaking: All grape juice (regardless of the color of the fruit on the outside) starts out clear. Red wine gets its lovely hue from extended contact with the skins and seeds of the grapes during a part of the winemaking process known as maceration. Since grape tannins are primarily located in the berry’s skin and seeds, red wines will typically have a much higher level of tannins than white wines. An exception to this could be a white wine that has seen extensive oak aging, as the wine can absorb the naturally occurring tannin from the wooden barrel.
Some grapes are higher in tannins than others. Nebbiolo is arguably one of the most tannic grapes in the world, and it is the star of Piedmont, Italy, where it is used to produce the renowned wines from Barolo and Barbaresco. Cabernet Sauvignon is another grape known for its tannin, as is Monastrell (planted widely in Spain and France, where it’s called Mourvèdre). On the other hand, grapes like Pinot Noir, Grenache, and Barbera have much lower levels of tannin, and a smoother, lighter mouthfeel.
While tannic wines can sometimes seem harsh or bitter on their own, they shine when paired with food. Tannin molecules bind with proteins and fats, and this has a softening effect on the palate. There’s a great (and scientific) reason that steak and Cabernet are such a tried-and-true pairing team.
In addition to contributing structure and flavor, tannin molecules offer stability to wine, and help it to age well for extended periods of time. In fact, many wine experts recommend cellaring high-tannic reds for several years before opening, to give the tannins time to soften and integrate.
To experience tannin for yourself, I recommend tasting a low-tannin and high-tannin red wine side-by-side. Consider an Italian Barbera (I love Truffle Hunter Barbera d’Asti) alongside a Nebbiolo (Oddero Langhe Nebbiolo is an excellent choice) and take your time mindfully sampling each one. What do you feel on your palate, and what do you taste? Does one seem lighter or heavier than the other? In which do you detect more astringency and dryness? To take it a step beyond tannin, and to apply some of what we learned last week, consider how much acidity you detect. Remember, acidity will often hit the mid-palate and the insides of your cheeks, and make you salivate. Next, taste both wines with a hard Italian cheese like Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano Reggiano, and see how your impression of each wine develops and changes.
If you have any tasting stories to share, or if I can assist with any questions or recommendations, let me know! You can reach me any time at michael@passionvines.com
Drink passionately,
Michael
Michael Bray is the founder of and director of operations at Passion Vines Wine & Spirit Company in Somers Point and Egg Harbor Township. He serves on numerous local boards.
